The Festival is over and I have had time to think about the experience, If I get a chance I will do it again along with some of the other shows in the area.
My pictures were well received and it was great watching the excitement as each picture was discovered and talked about.
One of the best parts of the experience was getting to hear the wildlife stories of others in the area, Pileated Woodpeckers, Sapsuckers, frog pond were some of the things we shared and is what makes our yards and neighborhoods special to us.
Overall it was a great experience, friendly people, quiet relaxing location, can't wait to do it again, maybe I will see you there in September.
Martin Dollenkamp
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Kitty Coleman Art and Bloom Festival
I am going to be at the Art and Bloom Festival on May 16, 17 and 18th 2009.
There will be a lots of Hummingbird prints, and other nature pictures.
If your in the area this is a great show to go to and the Woodland Gardens with the Rhododendrons blooming makes for a beautiful setting.
Martin Dollenkamp
www.frogpondphotography.com
Kitty Coleman Woodland Gardens
There will be a lots of Hummingbird prints, and other nature pictures.
If your in the area this is a great show to go to and the Woodland Gardens with the Rhododendrons blooming makes for a beautiful setting.
Martin Dollenkamp
www.frogpondphotography.com
Kitty Coleman Woodland Gardens
Monday, September 1, 2008
Ruby-throated Hummingbird on Vancouver Island
On Wednesday August 27 2008 I looked out onto the backyard to see what Hummingbird activity there was and I noticed a battle going on in the Bee Balm there was a Rufous juvenile repeatedly diving at another Hummingbird that looked different, at first I thought it might be an Anna's as I had been hoping to attract one.
The different looking Hummingbird won out in the battle and proceeded to take over the yard running off the Rufous.
I have perches for the Hummingbirds by the flower patches and he would perch close to the flowers and this gave me a chance to get some pictures so I could identify him.
First day pictures.
After looking at the pictures I knew right away that this was no Anna's Hummingbird so I posted the pictures at the Hummingbird Forum knowing my friends there would be able to identify this bird.
Ruby-throated Hummingbird on Vancouver Island
I was told that this was a Juvenile male and that Black-chinned and Ruby-throated juvenile males as are very similar in appearance but that the bill length and wing length show this as Ruby-throated plus that the gorget feather shows up red in some pictures confirms this.
Second day pictures
I sent the pictures to a friend and he posted the Rare Bird Alert on the BCVIBirds forum, there was some debate between Black-chinned and Ruby-throated but once some more pictures were shown with the red gorget feather and some wing detail the debate died down.
I also gave The Backyard Bird and Nature store a call as they do the bird alert for the Nanaimo area and they put the sighting in there Nanaimo Bird Alert.
On the second day a couple of friends that just happen to be photographers came over and we sat on the deck watching the Ruby-throated, Rufous and the other birds visiting the yard, the Ruby-throated put on a good show and we got some good pictures, he kept control of the perches close to us and would feed on the flowers right close to were we sat, we never did see him go to a Hummingbird feeder he just fed on the flowers and hawked insects.
Ruby-throated Hummingbirds are eastern birds and rarely seen in British Columbia, I did find them mentioned in the British Columbia Rare Birds List and here is the part on Ruby-throated's.
And I found some more details in the Birds of British Columbia page 482.
Day three pictures.
The first two days the weather was dark clouds and rain, not the greatest for taking pictures but we made do, the Ruby stayed close to the flowers and was busy guarding them from the Rufous and didn't venture off for any lenth of time, pretty well when every you looked there he was.
By the third day the weather had improved and although he was seen in the morning till 8:00 am he disappeared for a few hours, two birder/photographers had made arrangements to come and see the Ruby and he did show up before they did, he didn't stick as close to the flowers though as the previous two days, with the sunnier weather he was out and about more but did finally put on a show for the visitors and some nice pictures were taken
After every one was gone and the light was too low for photography the Ruby would sit on the perch on the deck with me and we would have a quiet time, he would perch closer than a Rufous would although the Rufous would feed closer.
On the fourth day he was there in the morning and disappeared after 8:00 am and again, I was hoping he would show up after a few hours like the day before as there were a number of people coming to see him but that was the last I saw of him, probably continuing his migration to the wintering grounds in Central America.
I have no idea how he came to be here and we will never know, juvenile hummingbirds are left on there own to find there way south as the adults leave earlier in the season once the breeding and nesting is finished the young birds gain strength and fat stores before migrating on there own, they don't always go in the right direction.
It was a very exiting experience and I am still looking out the window constantly to see if he is back and I do miss him.
The different looking Hummingbird won out in the battle and proceeded to take over the yard running off the Rufous.
I have perches for the Hummingbirds by the flower patches and he would perch close to the flowers and this gave me a chance to get some pictures so I could identify him.
First day pictures.
After looking at the pictures I knew right away that this was no Anna's Hummingbird so I posted the pictures at the Hummingbird Forum knowing my friends there would be able to identify this bird.
Ruby-throated Hummingbird on Vancouver IslandI was told that this was a Juvenile male and that Black-chinned and Ruby-throated juvenile males as are very similar in appearance but that the bill length and wing length show this as Ruby-throated plus that the gorget feather shows up red in some pictures confirms this.
Second day pictures
I sent the pictures to a friend and he posted the Rare Bird Alert on the BCVIBirds forum, there was some debate between Black-chinned and Ruby-throated but once some more pictures were shown with the red gorget feather and some wing detail the debate died down.
I also gave The Backyard Bird and Nature store a call as they do the bird alert for the Nanaimo area and they put the sighting in there Nanaimo Bird Alert.
On the second day a couple of friends that just happen to be photographers came over and we sat on the deck watching the Ruby-throated, Rufous and the other birds visiting the yard, the Ruby-throated put on a good show and we got some good pictures, he kept control of the perches close to us and would feed on the flowers right close to were we sat, we never did see him go to a Hummingbird feeder he just fed on the flowers and hawked insects.
Ruby-throated Hummingbirds are eastern birds and rarely seen in British Columbia, I did find them mentioned in the British Columbia Rare Birds List and here is the part on Ruby-throated's.
Ruby-throated Hummingbird Archilochus colubri
1.(1) adult male; June 11-21, 1951; near Vanderhoof
2.(1) adult male; May 4-late May, 1977; Stories Beach, south of Campbell River (ph)82
3.(1) adult male; April 28, 1979; North Vancouver
4.(1) adult male; July 21, 1981; Cypress Bowl Provincial Park, West Vancouver
5.(1) adult male; June 12, 1983; near Tupper, south of Dawson Creek
6.(1) adult male; April 1-2, 1992; Campbell Valley Regional Park, Langley
7.(max 2) adult male & female; June-July, 2000; near Valley View, north of Dawson Creek
8.(max 2) adult male & female; June-July, 2001; near Valley View, north of Dawson Creek
9.(1) female; August 16, 2002; near Dawson Creek
10.(1) adult male; June 5 - July 5, 2003; near Taylor, south of Fort St.John
11.(8) 4 males/ 4 females; May 20-June 28, 2004; near Taylor, south of Fort St.John
12.(1) adult male; June 12-16, 2005; near Taylor, south of Fort St.John (ph)
13.(1) adult male; August 8-11, 2007; New Hazelton, Bulkley Valley (ph)
And I found some more details in the Birds of British Columbia page 482.
Day three pictures.
The first two days the weather was dark clouds and rain, not the greatest for taking pictures but we made do, the Ruby stayed close to the flowers and was busy guarding them from the Rufous and didn't venture off for any lenth of time, pretty well when every you looked there he was.
By the third day the weather had improved and although he was seen in the morning till 8:00 am he disappeared for a few hours, two birder/photographers had made arrangements to come and see the Ruby and he did show up before they did, he didn't stick as close to the flowers though as the previous two days, with the sunnier weather he was out and about more but did finally put on a show for the visitors and some nice pictures were taken
After every one was gone and the light was too low for photography the Ruby would sit on the perch on the deck with me and we would have a quiet time, he would perch closer than a Rufous would although the Rufous would feed closer.
On the fourth day he was there in the morning and disappeared after 8:00 am and again, I was hoping he would show up after a few hours like the day before as there were a number of people coming to see him but that was the last I saw of him, probably continuing his migration to the wintering grounds in Central America.
I have no idea how he came to be here and we will never know, juvenile hummingbirds are left on there own to find there way south as the adults leave earlier in the season once the breeding and nesting is finished the young birds gain strength and fat stores before migrating on there own, they don't always go in the right direction.
It was a very exiting experience and I am still looking out the window constantly to see if he is back and I do miss him.
Saturday, July 5, 2008
Making a Veggie filter for my goldfish pond.
Filtering your pond water removes fish waste and feeds it to bacteria and plants, you won't get the build up of sludge on the bottom and the water will stay clear, its also healthier for the fish.
There is a disadvantage of having clear water and that is the predators will be able to see your fish when they fly over, I have problems with Kingfishers and Great Blue Herons and even a River Otter, so if your cleaning up the water make sure you have lots of cover in the way of Lilies and plants that cover the surface. A net placed over the pond for the winter months when there are no plants for cover can save a lot of fish.Having plants with long roots and some rip rap in the pond to make a reef creates some hiding places that the fish can go into.
I used to use biological upflow filters, these work very well but what I don't like about them is they need an aeration tower to oxygenate the water for proper bacterial action and they have a bare gravel bed, I have my filters integrated with my pond so this became an issue for me since its not so easy to hide, if your filters are hidden than this wouldn't be an issue,veggie filters are easier to construct since you don't need to build a shelve with a grate to support the media.
Veggie filters are sometimes called bog filters, so you if you want to learn more you can try a google search on bog filter or veggie filter.
To construct a filter you will need a pump, a container for holding the media, piping and distribution grid and some media. And some plants of course.
You will also need some way of draining the filter to clean out the accumulated solids, this should be done regularly so make it easy.
For a pump you want something that will recirculate the water in your pond every hour or so, and size your filters so there around 15 percent of the volume of your pond, a lot depends how many fish you have. The height you will be pumping will have to be factored in also since volume drops with height pumped.
Use piping with a smoother surface on the inside and the largest pipe that your pump can use, this will keep your line losses to a minimum.
For a container I dug a hole and used pond liner, build up the area so the filter is higher than the pond so the water will flow back with gravity, I separated the filter a couple of feet from the pond.
Once the hole was dug, underlayment placed, the liner was positioned and the grid layed in, my grid isn't the greatest and is somthing I had on hand and modified.The grid has holes evenly spaced, you don't want the holes too big, you want a bit of back pressure so all the holes get some flow.
The black clean out tower can be seen on the right, this is big enough I can drop a small pump into and pump out the sludge, a long enough hose on the pump to reach over to the flower beds is a good idea since this is great fertilizer. There is also a vertical pipe for hooking up compressed air to bubble the media for a good cleaning, a leaf blower is also good for bubbling, no need to remove the gravel for cleaning.
Once the grid was placed I started putting some water in and fine tuning the liner, once that was positioned the rock was placed, most likely it will need washing fist, I use smooth rock for media since its easiest to clean, course for the first half then pea gravel for the top half should work well.
Back filled and edged, plastic lawn edging works well for an edge treatment, it gives a clean level line that is easy to hide, this way I don't have to hide the edges with flat rocks I can use plants for a more natural look.
Final result, plants are filling in nicely. Experiment with different plants, is suprising what will grow with there roots submerged, Gunnera was an experiment that worked out well, they just love that steady supply of water to the roots, Hostas are another one that work well in the pond and filter, Pickerel Root, Creeping Jenny, Ladies Mantel, are some others I have tried with success, Yellow flag Iris is ideal because it grows fast and has a strong root structure.
I have another Veggie filter feeding the water fall, its small in size, but has a larger volume of water since the waterfall flow feeds through it.
Close up you can see it blends in with the surroundings.
Its only the beginning of July when the last pictures were taken so there will be a lot more filling in and I will try some more different plants to see what else I can find the works well.
There is a disadvantage of having clear water and that is the predators will be able to see your fish when they fly over, I have problems with Kingfishers and Great Blue Herons and even a River Otter, so if your cleaning up the water make sure you have lots of cover in the way of Lilies and plants that cover the surface. A net placed over the pond for the winter months when there are no plants for cover can save a lot of fish.Having plants with long roots and some rip rap in the pond to make a reef creates some hiding places that the fish can go into.
I used to use biological upflow filters, these work very well but what I don't like about them is they need an aeration tower to oxygenate the water for proper bacterial action and they have a bare gravel bed, I have my filters integrated with my pond so this became an issue for me since its not so easy to hide, if your filters are hidden than this wouldn't be an issue,veggie filters are easier to construct since you don't need to build a shelve with a grate to support the media.
Veggie filters are sometimes called bog filters, so you if you want to learn more you can try a google search on bog filter or veggie filter.
To construct a filter you will need a pump, a container for holding the media, piping and distribution grid and some media. And some plants of course.
You will also need some way of draining the filter to clean out the accumulated solids, this should be done regularly so make it easy.
For a pump you want something that will recirculate the water in your pond every hour or so, and size your filters so there around 15 percent of the volume of your pond, a lot depends how many fish you have. The height you will be pumping will have to be factored in also since volume drops with height pumped.
Use piping with a smoother surface on the inside and the largest pipe that your pump can use, this will keep your line losses to a minimum.
For a container I dug a hole and used pond liner, build up the area so the filter is higher than the pond so the water will flow back with gravity, I separated the filter a couple of feet from the pond.
Once the hole was dug, underlayment placed, the liner was positioned and the grid layed in, my grid isn't the greatest and is somthing I had on hand and modified.The grid has holes evenly spaced, you don't want the holes too big, you want a bit of back pressure so all the holes get some flow.
The black clean out tower can be seen on the right, this is big enough I can drop a small pump into and pump out the sludge, a long enough hose on the pump to reach over to the flower beds is a good idea since this is great fertilizer. There is also a vertical pipe for hooking up compressed air to bubble the media for a good cleaning, a leaf blower is also good for bubbling, no need to remove the gravel for cleaning.
Once the grid was placed I started putting some water in and fine tuning the liner, once that was positioned the rock was placed, most likely it will need washing fist, I use smooth rock for media since its easiest to clean, course for the first half then pea gravel for the top half should work well.
Back filled and edged, plastic lawn edging works well for an edge treatment, it gives a clean level line that is easy to hide, this way I don't have to hide the edges with flat rocks I can use plants for a more natural look.
Final result, plants are filling in nicely. Experiment with different plants, is suprising what will grow with there roots submerged, Gunnera was an experiment that worked out well, they just love that steady supply of water to the roots, Hostas are another one that work well in the pond and filter, Pickerel Root, Creeping Jenny, Ladies Mantel, are some others I have tried with success, Yellow flag Iris is ideal because it grows fast and has a strong root structure.
I have another Veggie filter feeding the water fall, its small in size, but has a larger volume of water since the waterfall flow feeds through it.
Close up you can see it blends in with the surroundings.
Its only the beginning of July when the last pictures were taken so there will be a lot more filling in and I will try some more different plants to see what else I can find the works well.
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Attracting and photographing Woodpeckers
I have always been fascinated by Pileated Woodpeckers since I was a child and we had them in the yard in Ocean Park, South Surrey. It took me a while to figure out was hammering on the trees and making the jungle noises.
Twenty-five years later after moving were the jobs are I settled in Black Creek here on the east coast of Vancouver Island and there are Pileated Woodpeckers here along with Hairy's, Downy's, Northern Flickers and Red-breasted Sapsuckers. It took years before we seen all them.
The first Woodpecker we attracted was a Hairy, we had put out a feeder with some sunflower seeds and the Hairy would grab one seed and fly over to a fir tree and wedge it in the bark then peck at it to open up the seed and then eat the meat, a lot of work for little reward.
Next we put out some suet feeders, the Hairy's and Downy's enjoyed these and we noticed a new shy bird on the lawn making holes, it was a Northern Red Shafted Flicker, as soon as it seen me looking out the window it was gone.
I started making peanut butter suet and drilling holes in logs, I then stuffed the holes with the peanut butter suet, the Woodpeckers really liked this and the Flickers were getting less shy we could stand at the window and watch them without them flying away, the Hairy's and Downy's were not shy at all and would come to the log even if you were standing close by.
A few years ago we seen a pair of Pileateds come into the yard, we had seen them in the neighborhood but not in the yard, they rooted around in the garden not paying attention to the feeders.
That fall a young female Pileated showed up and tried out the feeders, I had added a tailboard to one of the wire suet feeders and she seemed to prefer that one, she was a regular all winter and then in the spring she got up on one of the trees were there was a bird house and started drumming, it was a solidly built bird house and made a nice sound when drummed on, probably the loudest thing in the yard she could find. I guess she had found a mate and the drumming was to bring him over because he showed up right away.
Now we had two Pileateds showing up, they are territorial and will chase out other ones and even chase away the young ones in the winter.
Later in the spring the female became scarce but the male showed up regularly loading up with food then flying away making regular trips, unlike Hairy's, Downy's and Sapsuckers Pileateds hold the food for the young in the crop the others hold it in there bill so you can see when they are getting a load for nestlings.
Then one day we seen a fledgling on the tree, pink top and dark eyes, the male will hide the fledgling on the other side of the trees at first then as it gets older he will feed it in view.
A little later a female fledgling was being brought also, the dad took his job very seriously and the fledglings were not allowed to feed them selves at first and would be chased away from the food if they tried to eat.
That was last year and the same happened this year again, we had fledglings and parents all through the summer and fall, pretty hard to tell them apart now. usually one shows up at a time but sometimes there will be two or three Pileateds at once.
The other Woodpeckers bring the fledglings along as well so I keep feeding the Woodpeckers all year round so we can see them.
The Red-Breasted Sapsucker comes to a Weeping Birch tree in the front yard, they will occasionally come to suet and like running water. The fledglings are brought to the Weeping Birch and left all day, sometimes there five birds on there.
The only Woodpeckers I have seen bathe are the Flickers, they seem to prefer the concrete bird bath over the running water of the water fall, the Pileated male would use the bird bath for drinking every day during the summer. The Sapsuckers were attracted by the waterfall and probably were using it when we were not around.
Its been a multi year project to get the woodpeckers coming regularly but it has really payed off, we get to see them all year round and really enjoy seeing the fledglings in the spring and summer.
For taking nice pictures I like to pick out a nice looking log, with no light colored spots and nothing distracting, sometimes I will use a moss covered one as the green goes well with the red on the birds.
I make stands for holding the logs and drill a hole in the bottom for a steel peg so it will attach to the stand and with a 3/4" forstner bit I will hollow out a cavity that I fill with peanut butter suet.
Eventually the Pileateds will drill holes in the log and it will need to be replaced, this is good since you can only have so many pictures on the same log.
For Flickers and Pileateds a blind is at first essential, later as they become accustomed to your presence and you be able to do with out if your lens is long enough.
http://www.frogpondphotography.com/photos/48256053-L.jpg
A lens in the 300-400mm range is ideal, a long lens can be used and will help with isolating the background.
Since you are choosing were the birds are to land pick a spot with a nice background, you don't want it too smooth but nothing distracting.
For lighting I mount a couple of flashes to the front of my blind, then shoot on cloudy days or in the shade, I like to expose the background around the middle of the histogram and fill flash the foreground with the flashes on 1/4 manual power, if I want the background lighter I will slow down the shutter speed and for the foreground I will vary the aperture, the camera is set to rear slow sync.
Balance fill flash means I don't want the flash to over power the subject and have the backgrounds dark, so less ambient light there is less flash that can be used, brighter the ambient light stronger the flash that can be used.
Don't use on camera flash, get the flashes off to the sides.
Occasionally you will get some ideal soft natural light, disconnect the flash and put the camera on high speed and hammer away.
Woodpeckers move quickly when feeding but they stop often to look around and when they do they are very still, you can get pictures of them down to 1/20 sec but they only pause for a second so you actually have to press the shutter when you think there going to pull there heads back and take a look around, they will also move there heads from side to side which will make it harder to get focus. It takes some practice to get the timing right and the keeper ration isn't all that high, just delete the blurry ones and keep the ones that have nice sharp eyes.
Hope this is helpful to someone and any feed back is appreciated.
To see larger versions of the pictures click on them, there are also a lot more woodpecker pictures at my web sight .
Feel free to share some of your woodpecker photography tips in the comments.
Twenty-five years later after moving were the jobs are I settled in Black Creek here on the east coast of Vancouver Island and there are Pileated Woodpeckers here along with Hairy's, Downy's, Northern Flickers and Red-breasted Sapsuckers. It took years before we seen all them.
The first Woodpecker we attracted was a Hairy, we had put out a feeder with some sunflower seeds and the Hairy would grab one seed and fly over to a fir tree and wedge it in the bark then peck at it to open up the seed and then eat the meat, a lot of work for little reward.
Next we put out some suet feeders, the Hairy's and Downy's enjoyed these and we noticed a new shy bird on the lawn making holes, it was a Northern Red Shafted Flicker, as soon as it seen me looking out the window it was gone.
I started making peanut butter suet and drilling holes in logs, I then stuffed the holes with the peanut butter suet, the Woodpeckers really liked this and the Flickers were getting less shy we could stand at the window and watch them without them flying away, the Hairy's and Downy's were not shy at all and would come to the log even if you were standing close by.
A few years ago we seen a pair of Pileateds come into the yard, we had seen them in the neighborhood but not in the yard, they rooted around in the garden not paying attention to the feeders.
That fall a young female Pileated showed up and tried out the feeders, I had added a tailboard to one of the wire suet feeders and she seemed to prefer that one, she was a regular all winter and then in the spring she got up on one of the trees were there was a bird house and started drumming, it was a solidly built bird house and made a nice sound when drummed on, probably the loudest thing in the yard she could find. I guess she had found a mate and the drumming was to bring him over because he showed up right away.
Now we had two Pileateds showing up, they are territorial and will chase out other ones and even chase away the young ones in the winter.
Later in the spring the female became scarce but the male showed up regularly loading up with food then flying away making regular trips, unlike Hairy's, Downy's and Sapsuckers Pileateds hold the food for the young in the crop the others hold it in there bill so you can see when they are getting a load for nestlings.
Then one day we seen a fledgling on the tree, pink top and dark eyes, the male will hide the fledgling on the other side of the trees at first then as it gets older he will feed it in view.
A little later a female fledgling was being brought also, the dad took his job very seriously and the fledglings were not allowed to feed them selves at first and would be chased away from the food if they tried to eat.
That was last year and the same happened this year again, we had fledglings and parents all through the summer and fall, pretty hard to tell them apart now. usually one shows up at a time but sometimes there will be two or three Pileateds at once.
The other Woodpeckers bring the fledglings along as well so I keep feeding the Woodpeckers all year round so we can see them.
The Red-Breasted Sapsucker comes to a Weeping Birch tree in the front yard, they will occasionally come to suet and like running water. The fledglings are brought to the Weeping Birch and left all day, sometimes there five birds on there.
The only Woodpeckers I have seen bathe are the Flickers, they seem to prefer the concrete bird bath over the running water of the water fall, the Pileated male would use the bird bath for drinking every day during the summer. The Sapsuckers were attracted by the waterfall and probably were using it when we were not around.
Its been a multi year project to get the woodpeckers coming regularly but it has really payed off, we get to see them all year round and really enjoy seeing the fledglings in the spring and summer.
For taking nice pictures I like to pick out a nice looking log, with no light colored spots and nothing distracting, sometimes I will use a moss covered one as the green goes well with the red on the birds.
I make stands for holding the logs and drill a hole in the bottom for a steel peg so it will attach to the stand and with a 3/4" forstner bit I will hollow out a cavity that I fill with peanut butter suet.
Eventually the Pileateds will drill holes in the log and it will need to be replaced, this is good since you can only have so many pictures on the same log.
For Flickers and Pileateds a blind is at first essential, later as they become accustomed to your presence and you be able to do with out if your lens is long enough.
http://www.frogpondphotography.com/photos/48256053-L.jpg
A lens in the 300-400mm range is ideal, a long lens can be used and will help with isolating the background.
Since you are choosing were the birds are to land pick a spot with a nice background, you don't want it too smooth but nothing distracting.
For lighting I mount a couple of flashes to the front of my blind, then shoot on cloudy days or in the shade, I like to expose the background around the middle of the histogram and fill flash the foreground with the flashes on 1/4 manual power, if I want the background lighter I will slow down the shutter speed and for the foreground I will vary the aperture, the camera is set to rear slow sync.
Balance fill flash means I don't want the flash to over power the subject and have the backgrounds dark, so less ambient light there is less flash that can be used, brighter the ambient light stronger the flash that can be used.
Don't use on camera flash, get the flashes off to the sides.
Occasionally you will get some ideal soft natural light, disconnect the flash and put the camera on high speed and hammer away.
Woodpeckers move quickly when feeding but they stop often to look around and when they do they are very still, you can get pictures of them down to 1/20 sec but they only pause for a second so you actually have to press the shutter when you think there going to pull there heads back and take a look around, they will also move there heads from side to side which will make it harder to get focus. It takes some practice to get the timing right and the keeper ration isn't all that high, just delete the blurry ones and keep the ones that have nice sharp eyes.
Hope this is helpful to someone and any feed back is appreciated.
To see larger versions of the pictures click on them, there are also a lot more woodpecker pictures at my web sight .
Feel free to share some of your woodpecker photography tips in the comments.
Thursday, October 25, 2007
Reversed Lens Macro photography.
Reversing a lens on camera is an inexpensive way to get high quality pictures at higher than 1:1 magnifications.
Most modern macro lenses go down to 1:1 magnification, for example, Nikon Dslr 1.5 crop cameras have a sensor size of 23.7mm x 15.6 so if the lens is set to 1:1 and the object your photographing is 23.7 wide it will fill the whole frame when you take the picture. Now add a 2x teleconverter to the macro lens and set it too 1:1 take a picture of a 12mm wide object and it will fill the frame, your magnification will be 2:1, but since you're using a teleconverter you are losing light and quality, you still will get a good view through the view finder.
Some drawbacks and advantages of different methods of gaining magnification.
Macro lens are great because you focus from 1:1 to infinity, there the easiest way for closeup photography, want some more magnification add a teleconverter, you will keep your working distance and lose a bit of light.
Using tubes, close-up lenses, stacked lenses, reversed lens, all are harder to use than a macro lens but they all produce good results and can be used with a macro lens for getting greater magnification.
Extension tubes, you lose light and the ability to focus at a distance, the magnification effect is more on shorter lenses and less on telephotos, tubes work will with reversed lenses.
Stacked lenses, this is when you use a macro coupler and reverse a lens on the end of another lens, good way to get really high magnifications, working distance is very short and hard to light. I stacked my 28mm on the 200 f4 micro and I was getting 12:1 magnification, it was very hard to work with.
Reversed lens, view finder is dark and short working distance and a single point of focus, very sharp results, compact light setup, especially when used on the lighter cameras like the D70, easy to hold in one hand, on the D200 its harder to hold in one hand because of the extra weight.
Close-up lens, Canon and Nikon make some nice ones, longer the lens greater the effect, working distance is shortened and you lose no light, my Nikon 6T and the 200 f4 micro will get me 2:1 on the Tamron 90 its only 1.4:1, attached to the 70-300 ED it gives almost 1:1.
So why bother with a reversed lens if its such a pain to use, the reasons are magnification and picture quality, and the fact that its the cheapest way to get into macro photography helps also.
Lenses that are suited for reversing.
Prime lenses with an aperture ring like the 50mm, 35mm, 28mm, 24mm, 20mm are ideal, zoom lenses with aperture rings in this range may work also.
approximate magnifications depending of the lens version and make.
50mm lens will give you 1:1 magnification.
28mm 2.1:1
24mm 2.6:1
20mm will get you 3.4:1
Now one of the great things is it doesn't have to be a lens with the same mount as your camera, I started with a 28mm Yashica lens, it worked great, it was a lens that had been sitting around for twenty years doing nothing, you may have something similar lying around, its a great way to put old lenses to use, ebay is another source and also camera shops, there are lots of old lenses that are good optically and can be had for very little money.
A reversing ring is an adapter with f mount on one side that fits in to the camera and a male 52mm thread on the other side that screws into the front of your lens. Nikon sells a nice one called the BR-2a its a solid metal machined piece that is will worth the money and its even reasonably priced.
You can also make your own from a body cap and a old 52 mm filter, drill a 3/4" hole in the body cap, remove the glass from the filter, glue the filter to the body cap and also fill in the flange with epoxy were the locking pin locks in the body cap, drill a small hole for the pin to go into.
There are also clone reversing rings available on ebay.
Lighting, the working distance is short so lighting can be tricky, I use the built-in flash with a diffuser made from the side of a milk jug, rubbermade cutting board material is even more diffuse and works also.
Your flash will fall off quickly at these distances and the black backgrounds don't look all that great so try to position so you have a background that is close, you can even place something in the background like a leaf, this will give you a lighter background.
Technique, I shoot hand held but for static objects a tripod and focus rail can be used, you will be dealing with depths of field in the less than 1mm range so you will have to practice and come up with ways to stabilize your body when shooting.
Standing up bent over an object generally doesn't work, you body motion will be greater than the depth of field, you will need to lean on something and brace your elbows.
Sitting down is best with your elbows against your knees, start in bright sunshine and set your aperture ring to f8, once you develop your technique and learn some tricks you can use f11 and f16 for more depth of field.
Find a subject, I am mostly interested in insects but flower parts are good way to start since there static and you don't have to worry about stalking, get in position and line up your camera to were you think the subject is, move in slowly, you won't see anything in the viewfinder at first it will all be a blur, keep moving in till the subject appears, look for a fine detail when this detail snaps into focus click the shutter now pull back and do it again, keep at it till the insect is gone or if a static object take lots, depth of field is small so parallel your subject as much as you can.
Depth of field is so small you may want to take some focus layers and combine them later in Photoshop or specialized software like Helicon focus.
Lens hood, you may want to protect the end of your lens, you can take a rear cap for a lens and drill a 3/8" hole, this will also help with flare.
Using the aperture lever, if you want more light for focusing so you can use apertures like f11 and f16, move your hand to the front of the lens and with one finger move the aperture lever, line up your focus then gently release and take the picture, this won't work if you have a lens hood on though.
Stalking insects, to get with in the two inch or less working distance takes some practice, first thing is move slow, no fast hand movements, find a subject that is busy eating, mating, sleeping, sunning, cleaning, if there busy its easier. Find a cooperative subject and don't waste your time chasing one that keeps flying away.
Once you have found one get into your stable position, if the insect is on something I can grab onto I take hold of the object with my left hand, moving slowly, I then bring the object towards the lens, this usually doesn't bother them since there used to being blown around in the wind, your hidden behind your diffuser so you don't look like a predator. I bring me left hand close till it touches the diffuser, I get focus on the subject and with my fingers on my left hand I can rotate and twist the the flower or branch till I get good a position, if the subject is moving around I can move it around to keep up with it.
Here is a depth of field chart I made up, like all the pictures click on it for a bigger version.
Reversed lens work is challenging, requires practice and technique, but its very rewarding you will get sharp high mag pictures that are second to none.
Most modern macro lenses go down to 1:1 magnification, for example, Nikon Dslr 1.5 crop cameras have a sensor size of 23.7mm x 15.6 so if the lens is set to 1:1 and the object your photographing is 23.7 wide it will fill the whole frame when you take the picture. Now add a 2x teleconverter to the macro lens and set it too 1:1 take a picture of a 12mm wide object and it will fill the frame, your magnification will be 2:1, but since you're using a teleconverter you are losing light and quality, you still will get a good view through the view finder.
Some drawbacks and advantages of different methods of gaining magnification.Macro lens are great because you focus from 1:1 to infinity, there the easiest way for closeup photography, want some more magnification add a teleconverter, you will keep your working distance and lose a bit of light.
Using tubes, close-up lenses, stacked lenses, reversed lens, all are harder to use than a macro lens but they all produce good results and can be used with a macro lens for getting greater magnification.
Extension tubes, you lose light and the ability to focus at a distance, the magnification effect is more on shorter lenses and less on telephotos, tubes work will with reversed lenses.
Stacked lenses, this is when you use a macro coupler and reverse a lens on the end of another lens, good way to get really high magnifications, working distance is very short and hard to light. I stacked my 28mm on the 200 f4 micro and I was getting 12:1 magnification, it was very hard to work with.
Reversed lens, view finder is dark and short working distance and a single point of focus, very sharp results, compact light setup, especially when used on the lighter cameras like the D70, easy to hold in one hand, on the D200 its harder to hold in one hand because of the extra weight.
Close-up lens, Canon and Nikon make some nice ones, longer the lens greater the effect, working distance is shortened and you lose no light, my Nikon 6T and the 200 f4 micro will get me 2:1 on the Tamron 90 its only 1.4:1, attached to the 70-300 ED it gives almost 1:1.
So why bother with a reversed lens if its such a pain to use, the reasons are magnification and picture quality, and the fact that its the cheapest way to get into macro photography helps also.
Lenses that are suited for reversing.
Prime lenses with an aperture ring like the 50mm, 35mm, 28mm, 24mm, 20mm are ideal, zoom lenses with aperture rings in this range may work also.
approximate magnifications depending of the lens version and make.
50mm lens will give you 1:1 magnification.
28mm 2.1:1
24mm 2.6:1
20mm will get you 3.4:1
Now one of the great things is it doesn't have to be a lens with the same mount as your camera, I started with a 28mm Yashica lens, it worked great, it was a lens that had been sitting around for twenty years doing nothing, you may have something similar lying around, its a great way to put old lenses to use, ebay is another source and also camera shops, there are lots of old lenses that are good optically and can be had for very little money.
A reversing ring is an adapter with f mount on one side that fits in to the camera and a male 52mm thread on the other side that screws into the front of your lens. Nikon sells a nice one called the BR-2a its a solid metal machined piece that is will worth the money and its even reasonably priced.
You can also make your own from a body cap and a old 52 mm filter, drill a 3/4" hole in the body cap, remove the glass from the filter, glue the filter to the body cap and also fill in the flange with epoxy were the locking pin locks in the body cap, drill a small hole for the pin to go into.
There are also clone reversing rings available on ebay.
Lighting, the working distance is short so lighting can be tricky, I use the built-in flash with a diffuser made from the side of a milk jug, rubbermade cutting board material is even more diffuse and works also.
Your flash will fall off quickly at these distances and the black backgrounds don't look all that great so try to position so you have a background that is close, you can even place something in the background like a leaf, this will give you a lighter background.
Technique, I shoot hand held but for static objects a tripod and focus rail can be used, you will be dealing with depths of field in the less than 1mm range so you will have to practice and come up with ways to stabilize your body when shooting.
Standing up bent over an object generally doesn't work, you body motion will be greater than the depth of field, you will need to lean on something and brace your elbows.
Sitting down is best with your elbows against your knees, start in bright sunshine and set your aperture ring to f8, once you develop your technique and learn some tricks you can use f11 and f16 for more depth of field.
Find a subject, I am mostly interested in insects but flower parts are good way to start since there static and you don't have to worry about stalking, get in position and line up your camera to were you think the subject is, move in slowly, you won't see anything in the viewfinder at first it will all be a blur, keep moving in till the subject appears, look for a fine detail when this detail snaps into focus click the shutter now pull back and do it again, keep at it till the insect is gone or if a static object take lots, depth of field is small so parallel your subject as much as you can.
Depth of field is so small you may want to take some focus layers and combine them later in Photoshop or specialized software like Helicon focus.
Lens hood, you may want to protect the end of your lens, you can take a rear cap for a lens and drill a 3/8" hole, this will also help with flare.
Using the aperture lever, if you want more light for focusing so you can use apertures like f11 and f16, move your hand to the front of the lens and with one finger move the aperture lever, line up your focus then gently release and take the picture, this won't work if you have a lens hood on though.
Stalking insects, to get with in the two inch or less working distance takes some practice, first thing is move slow, no fast hand movements, find a subject that is busy eating, mating, sleeping, sunning, cleaning, if there busy its easier. Find a cooperative subject and don't waste your time chasing one that keeps flying away.
Once you have found one get into your stable position, if the insect is on something I can grab onto I take hold of the object with my left hand, moving slowly, I then bring the object towards the lens, this usually doesn't bother them since there used to being blown around in the wind, your hidden behind your diffuser so you don't look like a predator. I bring me left hand close till it touches the diffuser, I get focus on the subject and with my fingers on my left hand I can rotate and twist the the flower or branch till I get good a position, if the subject is moving around I can move it around to keep up with it.
Here is a depth of field chart I made up, like all the pictures click on it for a bigger version.
Reversed lens work is challenging, requires practice and technique, but its very rewarding you will get sharp high mag pictures that are second to none.Monday, October 22, 2007
Hummingbird Photography Part 3 High Speed Flash.
Now that we have a basic understanding of Hummingbirds, and have them coming to a single spout feeder on a regular basis were ready for taking pictures.
The best way to get good depth of field and freeze the motion is with multiple high speed flashes, now don't think that just because your not willing to acquire five flashes and do a complicated setup means that you can't take good Hummingbird pictures, there are other techniques that can be used and we will get into them in later parts of this article.
First some flash basics.
Flash duration is quicker than shutter speed, so when using high speed flash what you are doing is using the flash duration to freeze the motion.
Closer the flash is to the subject, brighter the flash at the same power setting.
Closer the flash to the subject greater the light fall off.
Flash duration examples.
Nikon SB-800
1/1050 sec. at M1/1 (full)
1/1100 sec. at M1/2 output
1/2700 sec. at M1/4 output
1/5900 sec. at M1/8 output
1/10900 sec. at M1/16 output
1/17800 sec. at M1/32 output
1/32300 sec. at M1/64 output
1/41600 sec. at M1/128 output
Nikon SB-600
1/900 sec at m 1/1
1/1600 sec at m 1/2
1/3400 sec at m 1/4
1/6600 sec at m 1/8
1/11,100 sec at 1/16
1/20,000 sec at 1/32
1/25,000 sec at 1/64
Flash sync speed on modern cameras is 1/200 to 1/250 sec. some cameras and flash have an fp sync option but this is not what you will use for this since it is a reduced output setting that uses flash pulses, its not suitable for this type of setup and freezing motion.
As you can see even at full output the flash duration is up to four times quicker than flash sync speed, we will be trying for the 1/4 to 1/8th range.
At 1/8th power there won't be enough light so what we do is put the flashes closer, two to three feet away and use more of them, I think five is a good number, more can be used.
Basic setup.
Background
----------------------------------
/\
f flash flash
i
v
e
f
e
e
t
\/
Feeder
flash flash
flash
Camera
So thats two flashes on the background two at 45 degrees on the feeder and one on camera to trigger the other flashes and light up the gorget.
The background should be five to six feet behind the feeder so it will blur out, we will get into background details later. If you have six flashes use one for a back light.
What we want in a flash.
We want Manual power control, optical flash trigger, decent battery power, four AA's, fast recyle time.
Sync cords can be used also but there a pain but I do use a combination of optical triggers and sync cords.
Flash and camera compatibility, older flashes and modern cameras don't mix very well and you can damage your camera if the trigger voltage is not compatible, so only use the manufactures recommended flash in the flash shoe or attached with a sync cord, when using optical triggers you don't have to worry about this since there is no direct contact with the camera.
Now you can go out and buy five of your camera manufactures flashes for example Nikon, SB-800 has built in optical slave called SU-4 compatibility, full manual control, sync socket, very nice flash but very expensive, it also has ittl fully automatic capability, but we wouldn't use it in this application because it uses preflashes for metering and communication and which will startle the bird and you will get a bunch of strange positions.
Now what about the SB-600 its costs less but it doesn't have optical slave capability, so this would have to be added.
Probably the ideal flash is the Nikon SB-26, there available used for $80-$100, full manual and built in optical slave, four AA's, perfect flash for this application.
Going down the scale, look at Vivitar 283 and 285, the 283 will Need the VP-1 module and a optical slave added, the 285 will need a optical slave.
Optical slave triggers.
These are sensors that detect the flash pulse and trigger the flash they are attached too, they can be attached to the flash with a hot shoe or sync socket.
Features to look for in an optical flash trigger, sync socket, swivel hotshoe, you want to be able to put the trigger pointing backwards from the direction the flash is pointing, this is very important or they can be a real pain, build quality, I like the ones that are filled with epoxy since you will drop them since there small and the flimsy ones will just break.
Wein is a top quality brand but I have bought most of mine on ebay.
High end trigger would be Pocket Wizards, there radio communication, really not needed for the short distances used here but if you have them already they should work great.
Light stands.
You will need something to mount everything on, light stands are the easiest to work with, just small light ones will be good for this application, you can use tripods, any one will work, you can buy hot shoes with 1/4" threaded socket in the bottom, these come with a sync cord attached also and these can be used for attaching optical slave triggers, your flash might have even come with a small stand that has a threaded hole, I use my older tripod heads also and there great for getting the exact angle.
There are fully adjustable flash brackets that are made for light stands also and these are ideal.
I also use quick clamps to attach flashes onto the lawn furniture, step ladders etc.
Camera settings, start at 1/200s, f11, iso 200.
You want to set the aperture so that if the flashes didn't fire the scene would be dark, if you shoot in the shade you can use a lower aperture, but you are so close and they are so small, to get a decent depth of field try for f11 to f16.
That covers the basics, I kept it brief and will gladly fill in any details, feel free to ask any questions.
The best way to get good depth of field and freeze the motion is with multiple high speed flashes, now don't think that just because your not willing to acquire five flashes and do a complicated setup means that you can't take good Hummingbird pictures, there are other techniques that can be used and we will get into them in later parts of this article.
First some flash basics.
Flash duration is quicker than shutter speed, so when using high speed flash what you are doing is using the flash duration to freeze the motion.
Closer the flash is to the subject, brighter the flash at the same power setting.
Closer the flash to the subject greater the light fall off.
Flash duration examples.
Nikon SB-800
1/1050 sec. at M1/1 (full)
1/1100 sec. at M1/2 output
1/2700 sec. at M1/4 output
1/5900 sec. at M1/8 output
1/10900 sec. at M1/16 output
1/17800 sec. at M1/32 output
1/32300 sec. at M1/64 output
1/41600 sec. at M1/128 output
Nikon SB-600
1/900 sec at m 1/1
1/1600 sec at m 1/2
1/3400 sec at m 1/4
1/6600 sec at m 1/8
1/11,100 sec at 1/16
1/20,000 sec at 1/32
1/25,000 sec at 1/64
Flash sync speed on modern cameras is 1/200 to 1/250 sec. some cameras and flash have an fp sync option but this is not what you will use for this since it is a reduced output setting that uses flash pulses, its not suitable for this type of setup and freezing motion.
As you can see even at full output the flash duration is up to four times quicker than flash sync speed, we will be trying for the 1/4 to 1/8th range.
At 1/8th power there won't be enough light so what we do is put the flashes closer, two to three feet away and use more of them, I think five is a good number, more can be used.
Basic setup.
Background
----------------------------------
/\
f flash flash
i
v
e
f
e
e
t
\/
Feeder
flash flash
flash
Camera
So thats two flashes on the background two at 45 degrees on the feeder and one on camera to trigger the other flashes and light up the gorget.
The background should be five to six feet behind the feeder so it will blur out, we will get into background details later. If you have six flashes use one for a back light.
What we want in a flash.
We want Manual power control, optical flash trigger, decent battery power, four AA's, fast recyle time.
Sync cords can be used also but there a pain but I do use a combination of optical triggers and sync cords.
Flash and camera compatibility, older flashes and modern cameras don't mix very well and you can damage your camera if the trigger voltage is not compatible, so only use the manufactures recommended flash in the flash shoe or attached with a sync cord, when using optical triggers you don't have to worry about this since there is no direct contact with the camera.
Now you can go out and buy five of your camera manufactures flashes for example Nikon, SB-800 has built in optical slave called SU-4 compatibility, full manual control, sync socket, very nice flash but very expensive, it also has ittl fully automatic capability, but we wouldn't use it in this application because it uses preflashes for metering and communication and which will startle the bird and you will get a bunch of strange positions.
Now what about the SB-600 its costs less but it doesn't have optical slave capability, so this would have to be added.
Probably the ideal flash is the Nikon SB-26, there available used for $80-$100, full manual and built in optical slave, four AA's, perfect flash for this application.
Going down the scale, look at Vivitar 283 and 285, the 283 will Need the VP-1 module and a optical slave added, the 285 will need a optical slave.
Optical slave triggers.
These are sensors that detect the flash pulse and trigger the flash they are attached too, they can be attached to the flash with a hot shoe or sync socket.
Features to look for in an optical flash trigger, sync socket, swivel hotshoe, you want to be able to put the trigger pointing backwards from the direction the flash is pointing, this is very important or they can be a real pain, build quality, I like the ones that are filled with epoxy since you will drop them since there small and the flimsy ones will just break.
Wein is a top quality brand but I have bought most of mine on ebay.
High end trigger would be Pocket Wizards, there radio communication, really not needed for the short distances used here but if you have them already they should work great.
Light stands.
You will need something to mount everything on, light stands are the easiest to work with, just small light ones will be good for this application, you can use tripods, any one will work, you can buy hot shoes with 1/4" threaded socket in the bottom, these come with a sync cord attached also and these can be used for attaching optical slave triggers, your flash might have even come with a small stand that has a threaded hole, I use my older tripod heads also and there great for getting the exact angle.
There are fully adjustable flash brackets that are made for light stands also and these are ideal.
I also use quick clamps to attach flashes onto the lawn furniture, step ladders etc.
Camera settings, start at 1/200s, f11, iso 200.
You want to set the aperture so that if the flashes didn't fire the scene would be dark, if you shoot in the shade you can use a lower aperture, but you are so close and they are so small, to get a decent depth of field try for f11 to f16.
That covers the basics, I kept it brief and will gladly fill in any details, feel free to ask any questions.
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